- January 12, 2018.
Up to date. Sending a set of drawings to Turkey. The customer first contacted me in 2012. So, he is serious about actually doing her. Building a boat; any boats is a serious business. You place your life on a trajectory equivalent to go into space Time. The moment for this design started in 1998; I believe enough time to go to Mars with a return ticket. Forget the last part.
This is all about Origami/ Imagiro boats via Rhino.
I look at it as a brain exercise.
What is the most simplistic form to describe the process?
- You create a chine fore and aft of the midship section to conically develop the bow and the stern. There is no need for conventional Lines Plan and lofting. Simply follow the pattern to develop the shell. But in case you want to see what it looks like when waterlines, buttocks, and sections are projected to the shell have a look at the 2d. plan below.
- Note: This is a rendering essay. For photos and images, please e-mail: tantonyachts@aol.com
- This Model is a Stock Plan.
- Pictures are worth thousands of words.
Follow the images of putting together this 39' sailboat using a folding pattern method for building in metal.
The whole object is to get a shell together fast, using a minimum of welding and components to complete a very strong boat.
Completion of deck, interior, fitting out; will take just about the same amount of time than any other boats.
- Sequence 2. - Sequence 3.
- The split is welded shut,
bending the steel in one shape. Duplicated
on the other side, then welded together.
To illustrate internals, a half shell is shown.
- Sequence 4. -Sequence 5.
- Sequence 6. - Sequence 7
- Sequence 8 - Sequence 9
- Sequence 10 - Sequence 11
- Sequence 12 - Sequence 13
Blue Wonder.
- I have been asked before. So, how big would you want to go for an Origami/ Imagiro steel boat? I answered in the following manner. I want to stick to the increment of plate size, all based on 20' (6M.) x 8' (2.4M) for the hull. Be 40 or 60', the overall beam does not change from 12' (3.65M.)
- The overall length depends on the hull curvature and the angle of the transom. Not changing the beam allows for an increase in scantlings without increasing disproportionally the weight and displacement and she will be a fast boat.
- For deck and superstructure, I superimposed the Oceanus 62 designed by William Garden, which I like a lot as you can see in a recent blog: Boat design of the month. Her beam is also 12' and the deck plan fits nicely.
- Whitecap is a 36' double-ender. I have always been fond of the Norwegian Rescue boats, most of them designed by Colin Archer. - To these days, if you want to get away on a minimalist sea vehicle, and follow through with block and tackles, gaff rig, foot pumps, but with a windlass and one engine this 36 might be for you to take you around the world and to the Kerguelen; if you have time. Based on other designs of mine, I have adopted for this one a steel Origami / Imagiro method of construction; folding an isotropic material into the shape of a boat. If done right, this sailboat will be admired in every anchorage. For the timidest, this sailboat can be built in more conventional ways, benefiting nevertheless by the fact that all the plating will just bend over the minimal skeleton.
- Below is a Model for a 45' (13.72m.) sailboat. The owner has specific requirements and this is a hefty boat with heavy displacement for her size. The bulk of it is an increase in the plating thickness and feature a wider beam.
I find that making the centreline a water tank, by simply putting a fully welded 3/16th lid on it, and ends, you end up with a super strong pyramidal shape , which eliminates the need for transverse framing there.Thoroughly attaching the bottom ends of the transverse stiffeners to the top outside corners of this pyramid give you the same, or more strength as running the transverse webs to the centreline. This lets you put your tankage as low as possible , while giving you an extremely accessible and easy to clean tank.
ReplyDeleteI put a baffle half way along, and a 1 ft by 2 ft inspection plate straddling the baffle. This lets me reach every inch of the tank inside, within arms reach.
Putting a plexi window in the centre of the inspection plate lets me see inside the tank bottom any time, by simply lifting the floor. I make the floor one piece of plywood, hinged on one side, for easy access.
Brent Swain
Sounds simple enough.Thank you.
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